After a breakfast of Gai Tod and sticky rice, we headed over to Chong Phli for another day of climbing. I thought I’d try something new. Exfolation 6a+
It follows the diagonal line that goes up and to the right. But first, warm up on EFZ for the 100th time (not literally but I think it will be true at some point). EFZ was uneventful except for some reason I am making that last few moves at the anchor harder than they need to be. There’s almost a little cave near the anchor and it feels really nice and secure to wedge myself in there. But it’s awkward moving up the clip the anchor. Much easier to climb on the outside of it but it is more exposed.
Now on to Exfoliation. I sat around for 5 or 10 minutes because somebody left their quickdraws on the route and rope at the base of the climb. But a group next to me mentioned they had been there for 2 days! WTF!? Who leaves their shit out for that long? So at this point it’s obvious nobody is going to be climbing the route any time soon except for me! I get ready to climb and start on the route. Starts easy enough. Big jugs everywhere. I think it’s going to be like this all the way up. But half way up where the texture of the rock changes it gets thin and crimpy. Uh oh, I don’t know what to do, I feel the burn in my arms and I’m starting to get confused. Take! It goes like this for the next couple bolts but then it’s smooth sailing to the anchor.
Exfoliation shares the same anchor with another route called Devil’s Backbone rated 6b. So on my way down I clipped into the bolts for Devil’s Backbone to try it on top rope. You can see the route in the photo above. It climbs up that vertical line of black rock in the right of the photo. Well, the rock is black because it’s very wet and has moss and mildew or something growing on it. Whatever it was it is very slimy and made the route much harder than if it was dry. I got to the top then done for the day. Packed up. To room for a shower then off to lunch.
Lunch was at some restaurant at the end of Nopparattara Beach Everything on the menu was expensive! Almost everything was 100 or more BHT So I ordered the cheapest and most boring thing on there. Chicken Phad Thai for 90 BHT. Clearly this restaurant is for the tourists. And the Phad Thai wasn’t even that good. Very oily and tasted kind of funny. I won’t be going back.
Yoga! I’ve been doing yoga off and on for about a year and a half. I don’t like it. But I do it because it helps with flexibility and core strength which is good for climbing. It’s been a couple months since I’ve done any but decided I should get back into it. So I decided to check out Aonang Yoga I think it’s a little expensive but still cheap compared to home. I bought a 8 class punch card for 2000 BHT which works out to about $8 per one hour class. It was different than I’m used to but still good. I was dripping sweat at the end of class. It’s pretty much like hot yoga back home except it’s just normal yoga in Thailand because it’s so hot and humid here and only shopping centers and 7-11 have air conditioning.
Then dinner. At a little restaurant on the the side of the road across the street from 7-11. Kuai Tiao Gai (noodle soup with chicken). For 40 BHT. And way better than the Phad Thai for lunch.