Chong Phli – Day 27

This was actually from a couple days ago.  I went with plans of climbing McLovin 6b.  I wasn’t expecting to send but thought I’d at least get to the top.  The start of the climb is a little awkward and was the part I was worried about the most because if I fell before the third clip I would most likely hit the ground.  I get past the first two slings and it’s actually going quite well.  Then there’s a bolt that I clip and I’m starting to feel a little better.  I think it’s mostly a mental thing but I much prefer to clip bolts instead of slings.  Anyways, after that bolt is a bit of a runout section but it goes up to a big ledge and finally another bolt or sling (I forget) that I clip.  So far so good but the mental anguish starts all over again because if I fall before I get a few more clips up I won’t hit the ground but I will hit that ledge.  Anyways, the climbing is going pretty well.  Feeling pretty calm and relaxed and not getting pumped.  But then half way up, I can’t figure out the beta and lose some confidence.  So I lower down.

Luckily, my friend from yoga is also climbing today and he is a much better climber than I am.  So he finishes the climb for me then I get to run laps on it on top rope.  So I climb it 3 or 4 more times.  Get to the top each time, and figure out some beta.  The climb is interesting.  It’s pretty much all on a tufa system so there are very few spots where I can just pull down.  It’s mostly side pulling slopers.  There’s even a couple spots for hand and fist jams and I’m starting to understand why some people like crack climbing so much.  I feel like the first half of the climb isn’t that hard.  I’d say it’s similar to Chutzpah 6a+ in difficulty and style but I feel like the whole last half of the climb is the crux.  It’s not just one or two moves that give it the grade.  It’s all sustained 6b level climbing.  I’m at this point again where physically I know I can get to the top but not sure I have the mental strength yet.

I’m planning to go climbing again tomorrow.  Maybe I’ll give it another go if I’m feeling good after warming up.

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