Wow! Hard to believe I’ve climbed here 30 days already. I met Martin and Dorothea today. Martin was really wanting to get on a 6b today so after we warmed up on EFZ 6a+ we were looking at some of the other routes nearby. I have been up McLovin 6b a few times but got stuck on lead halfway up so was wondering if I should try to put up a different route. But looking at the other routes I wasn’t feeling stoked to try them. So I decided to go with the devil I know and got on McLovin 6b. The first half of the route goes well. I get up to my previous high point (which is also the crux), clip the sling and even though I’m feeling pretty good, I decide to rest for a few minutes. I study the rock and see some footholds I missed before.
I decide I have some beta that should work so I give it a go. Easy. That was the crux? But now I’m committed. The last sling is around my shins and I’m still 3 or 4 feet away from reaching the next sling. The move here is an awkward high left hand side pull with small footholds. It’s not that difficult but I’d be looking at a 10 or 15 foot fall if I don’t make it. Definitely a mental crux here. Well, I got up there without much trouble and clipped the sling. Now it’s sustained 6b climbing up to the anchor. I rest a couple more times but finished the route so I was feeling good about it.
Also climbing with us was a guy named Thomas. He’s from Switzerland and speaks German and Thai with a little bit of English. So I got to have a little conversation with him in Thai which was fun.
After we each had a turn on McLovin 6b, I climbed it one more time and moved the rope over to the anchor of Momentum 6b. We each climbed it on top rope and I got up there with one take. I could have got up in one go but I went right when I should have gone left near the anchor and had to rest for a bit.