Chong Phli – Day 35

Warmed up on Zack Attack 5.  Then set off to work on my goal for the day, to send the last 6a+ at the crag.  It’s funny all the thoughts going through my mind.  After warming up I was feeling confident.  But after tying in and getting ready to climb I started to think I might not do it.  Well, I got up past the first two bolts then clipped the first sling and was feeling a little better.  The start of this route is rather difficult but eases up for a while after the third clip.

The middle of the route traverses far to the right.  It’s easy and fun climbing.  Then it gets into a weird section where if you continue up it’s thin and balancy but if you continue right and down climb a little bit there are much better holds and a tufa with good textured rock to climb up.  Then in a little bit another weird section.  I climb up to clip the bolt.  Then climb down and right a bit to get back on the tufa.  At this point in the climb I’m feeling pretty good.  Relaxed, not pumped.  I know I’m going to send.  A few more moves and I’m at the anchor.  I finally sent Around the Bend 6a+.  Now that I’ve done all the 6a+ climbs it’s time to start working on the  6b’s.

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