Chong Phli – Day 37

The plan for today was climb McLovin 6b.  I was going to warm up on one of the easy climbs EFZ 6a+ or Zack Attack 5 so I would be fresh.  Well, the plan changed.  Martin was there with Dorothy getting ready to put up Buzzsaw 6b.  Dorothy was rather tired after a climb she did so Martin asked if I could belay him.  After a little trouble at the second bolt, Martin made it up to the anchor.  Props to Martin for starting to lead 6b’s!  There’s a tricky move between the first and second bolts.  Falling here would be very unpleasant so I have not tried leading this route yet.  After Martin came down I figured I might as well try it on top rope.  So much for an easy warm up.  Some new beta made the start easier and the tricky section felt better.  The rest of the route is all about using your feet efficiently and I made it up to the top without much trouble.

Anong gave it a try then Martin went up again.  I climbed again and am starting to feel much more confident on the start.  Even though it’s a 6b I actually wasn’t that tired and was feeling good so I moved over to McLovin 6b to give it a try.  In the back of my mind I really wanted to send but wasn’t too worried about it.  I just wanted to climb it a little better than I had done before.  I set off and am climbing pretty well up to the crux.  Which was my previous high point before taking.  There is a really good fist jam so I was able to get a pretty good rest in I calmed my breathing and went for it.  I made it through the move and there’s actually another pretty good rest here before one more move and clipping the next sling.  Another short rest here, shake out and chalk up.  I get up to clip the next sling and now I can relax.  At this point I’m thinking maybe I will send so I try to climb efficiently, look for good feet, and rest when I can.  Before I know it I’m at the anchor.  Yay!  I learned, or perhaps re-learned a few good lessons on this climb.

  1. Take rests when you can.  There are 6 or 7 good rest spots on this route.  I used every one of them.
  2. Keep moving even if tired and pumped.  There might be a good spot to rest just 1 or 2 moves away.
  3. Use your feet!  Does the next hand hold look too far away?  Chances are there are more food holds to get your feet higher up and bring it within reach.
  4. Steady deep breaths helps keep you calm and brings much needed oxygen to your muscles.

After I came down Anong tried but the start is too difficult for her so I climbed it one more time on top rope to clean the route.  After I came down I was ready to go home.  Tired, hungry, and a little dehydrated.  But when I was getting ready I noticed I seemed to be missing one quickdraw and Anong pointed out to me it was hanging from a sling on Around the Bend 6a+.  So we went over there and I climbed one more route to retrieve my quickdraw.  I climbed the first section with terrible style but I didn’t care.  I was tired.  Once up on the ledge I climbed the rest of the route well.  By now it was 2pm.  The sun was starting to shine on the wall and I was really hungry so we called it a day.

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