Chong Phli – Day 42

Took it easy today.  I think I climbed Simon Sends 4+ three times.  Twice on lead and once on top rope.  Most of the day was spent teaching Anong how to lead climb.  I felt like she was ready and she said she wanted to learn.  First we went over how the different techniques for clipping a quickdraw.  Gate facing away from the climber with right and left hand then gate facing toward the climber with right and left hand.  Then going over what back-clipping is and why it is bad.

There is still a bit of a language barrier between us.  Her english is not bad but not really good enough to explain all this while just talking.  So teaching her mostly consisted of demonstrating the technique than having her try it.  Then going over various scenarios and saying whether it is good or bad.

After I thought she understood the technique for clipping quickdraws I had her tie in with a very long tail to climb the route on top rope but clip the long tail in to each quickdraw as if leading.  The first time she did the mock lead she back-clipped nearly every quickdraw so then I had her fix it and continue up.  Lowered her down then another review / lesson on clipping technique.

I had her climb again and this time I knew she understood because a couple times she went to clip the quickdraw and it was back-clipped but without me saying anything she fixed it.  After a little rest she wanted to lead it.  So I pulled the rope and up she went.  She climbed it perfectly.  I’m super proud of her for redpointing her first route.

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