I’ve been working on learning to read and write Thai. Starting with the 9 middle class consonants and 32 vowels. I found a series of pretty good YouTube videos from Learn Thai Style. Here they are:
I was craving some ice cream so thought I would try making my own out of coconut milk. I found a recipe online for coconut caramel ice cream that sounded good. I don’t have any measuring spoons, cups, and the recipe called for cans of coconut milk. I only have 8.5 oz cartons. So, I winged it and it came out pretty good. Here’s my “recipe”
- Put 1 carton of coconut milk in a pan and add a lot of sugar.
- Add a little salt.
- Turn head to medium high and reduce until the liquid turns brown and look like caramel.
- Add the second carton of coconut milk and bring to a boil.
- Temper some egg yolks.
- Place the whole mixture back in the pan and place over medium low heat.
- Stir frequently just until the mixture thickens a little bit.
- Put in the freezer.
- Stir every couple hours.
It’s been over a month since I climbed Exfoliation 6a+ and a hold broke off of it a few weeks ago so I thought I would give it a try. The hold that broke doesn’t change the route but apparently I forgot how to climb it because it took two takes to get to the top. Then Anong and I took turns climbing it on top rope and I had Anong practice taking some falls. We had a late start today so after each of us climbed it 3 times the sun was starting to shine on the wall so that was it for today.
Anong continues to learn how to lead climb. This time on Zak Attack 5. I lead it and place a few extra quickdraws hanging on slings to make it a super safe lead. Then Anong climbs it on top rope doing a mock lead. Then after a rest she is ready to lead for real. Crushed it and she redpoints her second route, Zak Attack 5. Then I climb it one more time to clean.
It’s been a few days since I’ve climbed anything hard (for me). I would really like to send Momentum 6b. I feel like I am close. Maybe tomorrow.
Took it easy today. I think I climbed Simon Sends 4+ three times. Twice on lead and once on top rope. Most of the day was spent teaching Anong how to lead climb. I felt like she was ready and she said she wanted to learn. First we went over how the different techniques for clipping a quickdraw. Gate facing away from the climber with right and left hand then gate facing toward the climber with right and left hand. Then going over what back-clipping is and why it is bad.
There is still a bit of a language barrier between us. Her english is not bad but not really good enough to explain all this while just talking. So teaching her mostly consisted of demonstrating the technique than having her try it. Then going over various scenarios and saying whether it is good or bad.
After I thought she understood the technique for clipping quickdraws I had her tie in with a very long tail to climb the route on top rope but clip the long tail in to each quickdraw as if leading. The first time she did the mock lead she back-clipped nearly every quickdraw so then I had her fix it and continue up. Lowered her down then another review / lesson on clipping technique.
I had her climb again and this time I knew she understood because a couple times she went to clip the quickdraw and it was back-clipped but without me saying anything she fixed it. After a little rest she wanted to lead it. So I pulled the rope and up she went. She climbed it perfectly. I’m super proud of her for redpointing her first route.
I was going to go climbing yesterday but it didn’t work out. So even though today was a school day I was really itching to get on the rock. It had been 3 full days since I climbed last. I was feeling well rested and strong but also slightly anxious for some reason. Warm up on EFZ 6a+ then I climbed McLovin 6b so I could try Momentum 6b on top rope. Today I got all the moves on Momentum 6b figured out and it’s starting to feel pretty good. After finishing up Momentum 6b it was 12:00 which meant it was time to go since I had class at school and needed to find time to get cleaned up and eat a quick lunch.
Pratyahara is the 5th limb of yoga. Googling reveals it means control of the senses. This page says pratyahara means to sever the link between your senses and your mind. Well, tonight in yoga class, there were a lot of scantily clad skinny white women wearing almost nothing and one wearing see through yoga pants. I took this as an opportunity to work on Pratyahara and isolating my sense of sight from my mind. I can’t say I was successful. I require much more practice isolating my senses from my mind.