Chong Phli – Day 62

I started climbing about three and a half years ago.  At the time I was out of shape and overweight because I preferred activities like watching movies and dining out to anything physical.  I had the physique of a software engineer and rarely tasked by body with doing anything more difficult than walk a flight of stairs or push keys on a keyboard.  This meant that my muscles and tendons often get confused by what I am asking them to do for me and I have almost continuously had some sort of injury since I started climbing.  Pain in various fingers has been a big one.  Shoulders, elbows, knees, and feet have also been locations of some injury or another.  The injuries have been pretty minor.  Whenever I feel something hurting I back off for a while until it feels better then start climbing again only to have some other part of my body decide it doesn’t want do what I ask of it.

Lately my left elbow has been rather unhappy with me.  I’ve been experimenting with tape and braces to support it in addition to doing some forearm exercises which should help even out muscle imbalances and I thought I was well on my way to healing this issue once and for all.  Yesterday Anong and I went climbing at Chong Phli again.  We warmed up on EFZ 6a+ like usual then I wanted to climb Momentum 6b again and do some laps on it to work on endurance.  After 2x on EFZ and 3x on Momentum the sun was starting to hit the wall and it was time to go but I felt like I got a pretty good workout.  Later in the evening I could tell I pushed myself too hard though since I started to feel a dull ache inside my elbow.  This sucks because now I need to take at least a week, maybe two weeks off to let it heal and get stronger.

Momentum 6b starting holds.

Momentum 6b starting holds.

Here’s a picture of the start of the route.  It has a couple bouldery powerful sequences that leads to easier more relaxed climbing in the middle.  Then the difficulty ramps up again the closer you get to the anchor.

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