Today we went to Railay. I wanted to try some new climbs so we went to Diamond Cave. There’s lots of routes in the 5 to 6b range which is what I like to climb. I was hoping to get an early start and have boat tickets in hand at 9am. But as usual, various things get in the way. Usually it’s me being lazy and slow to get going. In addition to that, the scooter which we call “scoopy” had a flat tire this morning. So after breakfast Anong took it to the shop to get fixed. Which means we didn’t leave the room until about 10:45. We waited about 10 minutes for enough people to get on the boat then were off and on rock at Diamond Cave around 11:30.
The first route we did was Keep The Jam, Man 6a. It had slightly confusing beta (for me) at the start then straight forward simple climbing up to the crux. The crux was surprisingly difficult and I’m sad to say that I had to rest there. But after a short rest, I got past it and on to easier climbing to the anchor. I was pretty disappointed I didn’t onsight this. It’s only 6a! Anong climbed it. Then I climbed one more time on top rope to figure out better beta through the crux. Then Anong climbed it one more time. By this time we were getting pretty hungry but I really wanted to redeem myself so I pulled the rope, led it one more time, and got the redpoint!
Next we ate lunch at the same place we usually eat in Railay. I think it’s called “Family Restaurant” or something like that. The food is pretty good and reasonably priced.
After lunch we headed back to Diamond Cave for more climbing. We did the following:
- Kai Kad 5 – The climbing felt awkward but easy.
- No Name 5 – Fun climb. Juggy overhanging section was fun.
- Run Away 5 – Short and easy.
- Mot Daeng 5 – Longer and easy.
Onsighted all the 5’s so that was cool. But they’re only 5’s and I should be able to onsight them by now. I felt a little better about my performance on the first climb too. When we got back to the crag, I saw a guy climbing a 6b without too much difficulty. A little later he got on Keep The Jam Man, 6a and got stuck at the same spot I did. It’s a fun climb but with one move that I think is a bit harder than the grade suggests.
We finished up at 5pm then headed back to the beach to catch the boat back to Ao Nang. Diamond Cave was a fun place to climb. I think I’ll go back and try some of the harder routes. Nearly every hold is a huge jug. If you’re not hanging onto a jug then you’re doing something wrong.
I didn’t get any good pictures. Here’s a collage of some of the pictures I took: