Railay – Day 8

Back to Railay.  I wanted to try Chock Dee 6a.  I made the mistake of not checking the guide book before starting.  So instead of started one route to the left of this one.  Which would have been fine but I couldn’t figure out the crux.  So I traversed over to the right to finish the climb on Mot Daeng 5 which I climbed last time.  All this traversing put a lot of rope drag in the system which was annoying but didn’t cause any real problems.

There’s a pretty good ledge at the top so I was able to traverse back over to the left and set up a top rope on Chock Dee 6a so I could work out the beta on top rope.  So going up on top rope I still couldn’t figure it out after trying a few different things.  There was lots of big blocky holds to the right but I didn’t use those at first because it seemed off route.  Directly above me was a good size crimp then about four feet above that a small flake I could use as a side pull.  But when going up it’s a dyno from a crimp to this sidepull.  This route being only a 6a should have told me that beta was wrong.  I tried a couple times and failed miserably.

In Thai, Chock Dee / โชคดี means Good Luck.  As in good luck figuring out the beta.

I tried a couple other things that didn’t work out so well but then decided to follow my own advice and use the big jugs.  I got through it then climbed through the crux again and happy that I was able to figure it out.  I just wish I could have done it on lead.  Anong climbed it and said it was easy.  After this we ate lunch and left the rope up since I wanted to climb it again then redpoint it and we were the only ones climbing there today.

But I never did get a chance to redpoint it because after lunch it started raining off and on.  I thought it would stop but after 15 minutes of off and on showers it really started to rain hard so we packed up the gear and walked back to the beach all wet to catch a boat back to Ao Nang.

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