Anong and I met Martin and Dorothea at Bat Cave last Sunday. After my last session at Bat Cave I set a goal to redpoint Tai don’t die 6b the next time I went. I was feeling confident in my ability to do it but as usual, when the day comes to perform, I start to have doubts. So I warm up on Pick Pockets 6a+ and redpoint it without much difficulty. Then I rest a bit while Anong climbs but I forgot to clean the anchor so that means I need to climb it one more time on top rope to clean the route. The climb on top rope goes easily enough.
Now it’s time for the main event. We wanted to get some pictures so I climb halfway up Mini Kingdom 6a to get to a good vantage point to take some pictures while Martin climbs it first. Martin redpoints it like a boss! Now it’s my turn and I’m feeling a little tired since I’ve already climbed 3 overhanging routes and need to climb the hardest one yet. Feeling a little doubtful I start up. I got the redpoint but it wasn’t easy. Felt the most pumped on a climb I’ve felt in a long time. Here’s some pictures.
The start is a little tricky but not too hard. Then climbing up to the crux is relatifely easy.
Clipping. On my way up…
Almost to the crux.
Clipping then on to the crux.
So far so good.
Here is the crux move. I think there has got to be a better way.
My feet slipped but somehow I managed to hang on.
Through the crux. Yay!
On my way up to the second crux which isn’t very hard but now I’m starting to feel tired.
Through the second crux. That’s the anchor just above me. Perhaps celebrating a little early but I’m confident I’ll get there.
Now my sights are set on Don’t kill Killer 6b+.
EFZ. Still wet. A couple more weeks and it should be dry enough to climb.
Today, Martin and I went to Chong Phli and met Mike there. Due to the rain, there haven’t been many people climbing there so everything is overgrown and there’s lots of moss and stuff growing on the rock. It is in the jungle after all. So we spent a few hours cleaning things up. That’s a before picture. I don’t have an after picture but it looks much better.
I also got to climb Momentum 6b on top rope then clean it and check slings on my way down. The start was very wet so I cheated a lot by pulling on slings and bolts. But the start isn’t really the crux anyways. A third of the way up, things got better and I was able to enjoy the climb. Happily I didn’t find it very difficult so maybe I haven’t lost as much strength as I thought. Or maybe all the climbing I’ve been doing at Bat Cave the last couple weeks is paying off.
It’s the beginning of high season in Ao Nang now. That means there are more people around. Shops that have been closed the last few months are opening up and there seems to be a bit more energy in the air. It also means the weather is starting to get nicer. The last few days have been very nice and it’s been a couple weeks since that have been torrential down pours. The last time I was at Chong Phli, everything was soaked. So I’ve been climbing at Bat Cave a lot because it stays dry even when it rains.
I was at Bat Cave again, I think on Sunday and had a very pleasant day there today as well. Last time nothing noteworthy took place. Today, I redpointed the 6a+ for the first time. Climbed the 6b on top rope but have all the beta figured out and will lead it next time. Did one run on the 6b+. I feel like I’ll be able to redpoint it soon then finished the day with a couple laps on the 6a.
According to this page, low tide was at 9:39am at a height of 1.89 meters. I started paddling about noon and the water level was a little low but it didn’t cause any problems. I paddled back a little after 4pm. High tide was at 5:28pm and a height of 2.63 meters so the water level was nice and high.