Chong Phli – Hearth Cave

Climbing yesterday.  Another late start, not to Chong Phli until about 10:45am.  Since I need to learn to climb Exfoliation 6a+ perfectly I decided this is my new warm-up route.  Sorry EFZ.  I still love you but we need a break for a little bit.  So I head up Exfoliation with no surprises.  But I felt a little pump in the arms so I clearly have work to do.  Anong climbed then I climbed once more on top rope to clean.

After that we headed over to Momentum 6b.  It had been awhile since I climbed this one and felt like giving it a go.  Seemed a little harder than I remembered but I got the beta worked out and made it to the top.  Then Anong climbed it.  Took her awhile but she got to the top too.  I didn’t need to clean it because a large group of Japanese climbers were nice enough to have left their quickdraws on the route.  So I just pulled the rope then headed over to Hearth Cave which is to the left and around the corner.

Even though I’ve been climbing at Chong Phli for over a year now, today was my first time climbing at Hearth Cave.  First I tried Shady 6b.  It’s a short overhanging route.  Climbing to the first 3 bolts is very steep.  The rest of the route is not so steep and a little more balancy.  I almost gave up at the 2nd or 3rd bolt because I was starting to feel a little pumped and having trouble figuring out the beta.  But I perservered and pulled through the crux to get the onsight.

Next we headed over to Dude Abides 6a+.  The guidebook rates this a 5 but other sources online call it a 6a+.  Most of the route is pretty easy but there are a couple moves just before the anchor that feel a lot harder than 5 to me.  So I’ll go with 6a+.  This would be a pretty good route but it is very dirty.  Also onsighted.

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