Climbing yesterday. Another late start, not to Chong Phli until about 10:45am. Since I need to learn to climb Exfoliation 6a+ perfectly I decided this is my new warm-up route. Sorry EFZ. I still love you but we need a break for a little bit. So I head up Exfoliation with no surprises. But I felt a little pump in the arms so I clearly have work to do. Anong climbed then I climbed once more on top rope to clean.
After that we headed over to Momentum 6b. It had been awhile since I climbed this one and felt like giving it a go. Seemed a little harder than I remembered but I got the beta worked out and made it to the top. Then Anong climbed it. Took her awhile but she got to the top too. I didn’t need to clean it because a large group of Japanese climbers were nice enough to have left their quickdraws on the route. So I just pulled the rope then headed over to Hearth Cave which is to the left and around the corner.
Even though I’ve been climbing at Chong Phli for over a year now, today was my first time climbing at Hearth Cave. First I tried Shady 6b. It’s a short overhanging route. Climbing to the first 3 bolts is very steep. The rest of the route is not so steep and a little more balancy. I almost gave up at the 2nd or 3rd bolt because I was starting to feel a little pumped and having trouble figuring out the beta. But I perservered and pulled through the crux to get the onsight.
Next we headed over to Dude Abides 6a+. The guidebook rates this a 5 but other sources online call it a 6a+. Most of the route is pretty easy but there are a couple moves just before the anchor that feel a lot harder than 5 to me. So I’ll go with 6a+. This would be a pretty good route but it is very dirty. Also onsighted.