Chong Phli – Family Affair

I was trying to figure out what I wanted to climb today.  Decided I should start with Family Affair 6c.  I redpointed it about 6 weeks ago and haven’t climbed it since.  Even though the grade is near my limit it’s actually a pretty good warm up.  There is easy climbing in the 6a to 6b range to the first crux in the middle of the route.  Then a couple tricky moves that depend on good footwork.  Then easier climbing to the second crux just below the anchor which is a little more powerful.  I didn’t expect it to give me much trouble but I fell at the first crux and took a couple tries to figure out the beta.  Then I fell again at the second crux.  Both cruxes are well protected with a bolt just below the difficult moves so I was right at the bolt when I fell.  Despite this I fell 15 to 20 feet!  I need to have a little chat with my belayer about managing slack in the rope 🙂  So I was a little bummed to not send but I hate falling so felt good about being willing to take some falls on lead.  I climbed it one more time on top rope and cruised through without difficulty.  Why is lead climbing such a head game?

Next we moved over to Chutzpah 6a+ and finished up the day on Exfoliation 6a+.  Both climbs were uneventful.

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