I was trying to figure out what I wanted to climb today. Decided I should start with Family Affair 6c. I redpointed it about 6 weeks ago and haven’t climbed it since. Even though the grade is near my limit it’s actually a pretty good warm up. There is easy climbing in the 6a to 6b range to the first crux in the middle of the route. Then a couple tricky moves that depend on good footwork. Then easier climbing to the second crux just below the anchor which is a little more powerful. I didn’t expect it to give me much trouble but I fell at the first crux and took a couple tries to figure out the beta. Then I fell again at the second crux. Both cruxes are well protected with a bolt just below the difficult moves so I was right at the bolt when I fell. Despite this I fell 15 to 20 feet! I need to have a little chat with my belayer about managing slack in the rope 🙂 So I was a little bummed to not send but I hate falling so felt good about being willing to take some falls on lead. I climbed it one more time on top rope and cruised through without difficulty. Why is lead climbing such a head game?
Next we moved over to Chutzpah 6a+ and finished up the day on Exfoliation 6a+. Both climbs were uneventful.