Tonsai Weekend

Day 1

Anong and I head to Gibbon Roof with plans to meet up with Martin and Dorothea.  First we warm up on what I will call Gibbon Roof New 4 6a+ since I don’t know the name of the route.  I onsighted it which was nice.  The first half has interesting climbing with a definite crux to get up on a ledge with easier climbing to the anchor.  Anong climbed it then I climbed it a second time.  On rappel I spent some time brushing a lot of dirt and dust off the rock.  Then we moved over to Infected Mushroom 6a+.  Here is proof that not all 6a+’s are created equal.  After climbing Infected Mushroom my arms are pumped and sweat is dripping down my face.  Gibbon Roof New 4 not so much.  Then Martin and I spend some time trying NWA 6c+.  We made some progress getting to one bolt before the anchor but it still eludes us.

By now it’s late afternoon and the mosquitoes are coming out.  Martin and Dorothea go back to Ao Nang.  Anong and I find a room to stay in.  Then we head over to Fire Wall.  I hadn’t climbed Groove Tube 6a which is considered a classic route on Tonsai yet.  So we went over there with the intention to climb it.   Unfortunately nearly every route on the wall had somebody on it but we stuck around and a new route for me opened up.  For Helga 6a+ starts off on some lower angled tufas then turns vertical with some cool rock.  Finger pockets, tufas, everything climbing in Thailand is all about.  Then easier climbing to the anchor.  It was a fun route.  Onsighted.  Anong climbed For Helga then after that, amazingly enough, Groove Tube was free.  So we headed over there and climbed it.  Fun route and it’s been about three years since the last time I climbed it so I’ll call this an onsight 😛  By now it’s dark so we pack up.  Have a beer at Freedom Bar.  Go for a swim.  Get a massage.  Then eat some food and drink more beer.  Life doesn’t suck.

Day 2

Lazy morning.  I wanted to head over to Cobra Wall to finish up a project of mine.  Sun is still on the wall when we get there so we hang out awhile.  Once there’s enough shade we warm up on Cobra Head 6a.  Then work on my project Baby Snake 6c.  I honestly thought I was going to send today.  But I guess I wanted it too bad.  I failed miserably and had to relearn some of the beta and I felt like I had no endurance.  After a few failed redpoint attempts I give up.   I was getting hungry.  The tide was coming in, and I wanted to go back to Gibbon Roof.

After lunch we head to Gibbon Roof.  I had one more go at NWA 6c+.  I got to my previous high point but no farther.  Feeling tired I wanted to go home but climb up Infected Mushroom for endurance training.  By now the mosquitoes are coming out so we pack up and head back to the beach to catch a boat to Ao Nang.


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