Tonsai – Cat Wall

Anong and I met Martin and Dorothea at Gibbon Roof in the morning.  We warmed up on Gibbon Roof New 4 6a+.  A couple weeks ago I spent a good amount of time brushing off this route but it’s still quite dirty.  I guess next time I’ll spend a bit more time brushing it off.  After warming up we moved over to NWA 6c+.  I tried it once and got to a new high point (the 4th bolt) before needing to rest.  Then I was able to climb to the bolt just before the crux.  The crux feels impossible to me right now.  But I just need to keep trying.  After couple feeble attempts at making the crux move I fell and wasn’t able to get back on route.

We were watching some people climb Straight out of Tonsai 7a which is one route to the right of NWA.  They said most of the route is actually easier than NWA so Martin and I gave it a try.  It’s a short, very steep, powerful route.  I was able to get to one bolt before the anchor with only a couple rests.  It seems doable if I can refine the beta and climb it quickly / efficiently.

Starting to feel a little tired, we took a rest and walked over to Cat Wall.  When I was at Fire Wall, it looked like there were some fun climbs here.  We tried the two easiest routes.  First, I tried The Cat And The Cobra 6b.  Some interesting climbing at the beginning to middle of the route leads to a gently overhanging jug haul to the finish.  I was feeling good about onsighting it.  Then I tried Devil Cat 6b.  Another good climb.  Crux is a bolt or two before the anchor.  I didn’t think I was going to be able to do it but I pushed through and found the jugs.  So pumped at the end and happy for another onsight.

I attribute my good performance today to my new shoes.  I got a pair of La Sportiva Katana Women’s.  The white and bright pink/magenta looks a little ridiculous on me but I don’t care.  I got them because they are very similar to my old shoes (Katana Men’s) but have the XS Grip 2 rubber on them which makes them extra sticky.  I felt so much more confident with my feet climbing in them.  It’s like R-compound tires for my feet!

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