Chong Phli – Grace

I had a very delightful day climbing two days ago.  Anong was out of town so I headed to Chong Phli by myself planning to meet Martin and Dorothea there.  I got there a little early and ended up climbing a bit with Johannes and Hanna.  They are just about the nicest friendly people I have met and very strong climbers too.  They were just coming down Grace 7a and I mentioned I’d like to try it.  We put my rope up on the route then I warmed up on Exfoliation 6a+.  Johannes watched me climb while Hanna belayed.  After the climb Johannes gave a couple suggestions to improve climbing technique which was appreciated.  Johannes and Hanna then did their climbs and we headed back over to Grace so I could give it a go on top rope.  Johannes gave good beta so I was able to make it all the way up to the crux.  I had to rest then I was able to make it to the anchors.  Meanwhile Martin and Dorothea showed up so I chatted with them a while.  Later, I tried Grace one more time and was able to climb cleanly to the top!  Whenever I feel a little more confident, I think this will be my first 7a.

Sadly, today was Johannes and Hanna’s last day in Thailand.  I hope to run into them again somewhere.

The next day I met Martin and Dorothea at Gibbon Roof in Tonsai.  We warmed up on Infected Mushroom 6a+.  I decided I don’t like this route very much.  I haven’t found a good sequence through the crux and it just feels awkward to me.  Next we headed over to work on our project, NWA 6c+.  I watched Martin climb then I gave it a go.  I was able to climb quickly through the first few bolts so was able to make it to the rest spot before I pumped out.  I recovered and moved to the crux.  Unfortunately I was not able to get through the crux but reached a new high point today.  We rested awhile then gave it one more try.  Still no send but progress was made.  After that, we called it a day.

I walked over towards Monkey World to see if another guy I knew was climbing and maybe I could join but he was already high up on the wall.  So then I walked down to the beach and to Railay.  I bought the King Climbers guide book since it seems to have better topos.  Then I walked to Railay East to drop my shoes off to be resoled.  Then I went back to Railay West and as luck would have it, a boat to Ao Nang was getting ready to leave just as I got there.  Then I walked back to my room, got a foot massage because my feet were sore from all this walking then headed off to yoga.


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