Gibbon Roof – NWA

Update on climbing.


I was supposed to go climbing yesterday but cancelled because I was feeling sick.  So I got a lot of rest yesterday and today still feeling kind of bad and not too stoked to climb but I forced myself to get out anyways because I was feeling a bit cooped up.  So Anong and I met Martin and Dorothea at Gibbon Roof.  I warmed up on Gibbon Roof New 3 6a then spent some time on my way down brushing dust off the holds.  Then decided to try Gibbon Roof New 1 5 since I hadn’t tried it yet.  It was very dirty which detracted from the quality of the climbing but there are a couple nice moves on it.  Even a short overhanging section which I would say is the crux of the route.  Onsighted.  Then I ate some food, drank some water, and layed down on a hammock somebody set up.  It was actually very nice and peaceful.  If I ended the day here I would have been happy.  I was feeling lazy and tired but watching Martin on NWA 6c+ got me motivated to try it.

So after Martin came down I got ready to climb it.  I put on my new shoes and started up.  I’m still feeling a bit sluggish so had no expectations as to how I would do.  If anything, I expected to fall off somewhere before my previous high point.  But I made the first 3 clips without much trouble then moved quickly through the next two to get inside the cave and rest for a few minutes.  Out of the cave, I made the next clip then set myself up for the crux.  I made the swing through the crux, grabbed the hold, then clipped the next bolt.  Then I was thinking holy crap, I don’t know what to do next because I’ve never been this far.  But there were some other people cheering me on and they gave me some good beta to get to the anchor.  So I pulled through the last few pumpy moves and clipped the rings on my first 6c+!  Pumped silly and feeling good, Anong lowered me down and then I was done for the day.

It’s funny how I redpointed this when I had no expectation of doing so.  But I guess that’s the way it works.  Thinking back on it, I think having a group of people there encouraging me on was a big part of it.  Maybe I need to start climbing with headphones and a video of Chris Sharma climbing so I can hear shouts of “Venga Kris!” while I climb. 🙂  I was thinking I should have someone video me or take some pictures but decided there was no point since I was sure I would not send.  So here’s a picture of my new shoes and the jungle on the trail between Tonsai and Railay.


The jungle.


New shoes.  Hot pink isn’t really my color but so far I love them.  For the three climbs I’ve worn them on, I’ve onsighted two 6b’s and redpointed a 6c+.  They must be my lucky shoes!

Last Friday

Warm up on EFZ 6a+.  Then decide I need to push my comfort zone a bit and try leading Grace 7a.  I climbed it cleanly on top rope a few days before so thought there was a good chance I would send.  But I was quickly reminded leading and top roping are completely different.  I took a couple small falls and had to fight to make it up to one quickdraw before the crux.  I came down and let another guy climb it with my rope so I could top rope it some more.  Ended up doing two more laps on it.  Not sure I will send next time but I have the beta figured out pretty good now.  But I’m still feeling a little anxious about a few of the moves just past was is the crux.  They are not easy either.

Last Wednesday.

Warm up on Chutzpah 6a+.  Then a couple top rope laps on Exposure 6c+ variation.  I should be able to send this one but the last few moves before the anchor are not easy and it’s a big fall.  When I’m feeling a little stronger with more endurance I’ll give it a try.  One more lap on Chutzpah then I moved my rope over to Devil’s Backbone 6b to climb it on top rope cuz I was feeling lazy.  I haven’t climbed this one in a long time and it took me a while to remember / figure out the beta.


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