Today at Tonsai

Anong and I met a new friend at Tonsai today.  First we warmed up on the beach.  I’ve had my eyes on Rod Yaak / Schlingel Max 6b for awhile.  I wore my new lucky shoes hoping for an onsight.  Unfortunately I did not onsight.  Most of the climb is pretty straightforward but the crux is just before the anchor.  The rock is extremely polished with a long reachy move then jugs to the anchor.  This is one of those routes that will be rather difficult for short people and easier for tall people.  Unfortunately I’m not quite tall enough for this move to be easy.  But I got to the top and climbed it one more time cleanly on top rope.  I’ll probably try again next time I’m in the area.  I see on Mountain Project it’s rated 6b+.  So I feel a little better about failing to onsight.  This was probably a 6b when it first went up and a few years after.  But not it’s so polished it’s definitely more difficult.

Next we headed over to Freedom Bar and climbed Cowabungalow 6b.  It had been awhile since I climbed this.  I struggled a little bit to relearn some beta but I got to the top cleanly.  Climbed once more to clean.  We ate a quick lunch at the restaurant in front of Tonsai Bay Resort.  I can not recommend this restaurant.  A small plate of Pad Thai was 140 Baht and Mango shake was 80 Baht.  Things are more expensive in Tonsai since everything is brought in by longtail boat.  But the food was barely edible, bland, and oily.  On top of that, they don’t have a bathroom for customers.  You have to pay 20 baht to use the bathroom in the resort.  Absolutely ridiculous.  So I won’t be going back there.

Then we walked along the beach to The Nest / Wild Kingdom to find some easier climbs.  On the way we stopped to play on a slackline for a few minutes.  At Wild Kingdom we climbed the first pitch of Barato Barato 6a+.   Onsighted it but it was harder than I expected.  Then climbed again on top rope to clean.  We had time for one more climb.  Tamaryn wanted to do Caroline’s Last Day 6a but it was busy so instead we tried a new route for me, Techno Bug 6b.  Thought I’d try my lucky shoes again.  Even though they let me down earlier in the day they came through this time.  Onsighting 3 out of 4 6b’s isn’t too bad I guess.

After this, we packed up and caught a boat back to Ao Nang.  Not a bad day.

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