Chong Phli – Last Sunday

Anong and I met Tamryn again at Chong Phli.  Third day in a row climbing for me so I was starting to feel a little stiff and sore.  Decided to take it easy so we started off with Simon Sends 4, then moved over to Zak Attack 5.  After Zak Attack we tried Mad Skills 6b on top rope.  Then we headed over to EFZ 6a+ and finished up the day on The Dude Abides 6a+.

I rested on Monday and Tuesday.  Anong headed off to Bangkok to visit some family.  On Wednesday I met another yoga friend at Chong Phli.  She hadn’t climbed in a long time so I gave a quick refresher lesson and we stuck to the easy climbs.  Started on Zak Attack 5 then did EFZ 6a+ and finished on Exfoliation 6a+.

On Thursday I met Tamryn again at Chong Phli for a quick afternoon climbing session.  We got there just after 4:30pm which means the main face is in direct sun and would be too hot to climb.  But there are some new routes around the back side which is completely shaded.  We passed several routes on the way to the wall but all of them are too difficult for me at the moment but there is a section of the wall that has 3 6c’s and a 5.  So I put up It’s a Mammoth 5.  Put on my lucky shoes to guarantee a send and I headed up.  It starts off easy enough but figuring out beta at the crux was a little tricky.  I got through it and made it to the anchor drenched in sweat.  It felt much harder than a 5.  Tamryn tried it, took a rest at the crux then made it to the top.  Now we had a decision to make.  Yoga or more climbing?  We chose climbing!  So we each tried one more time on top rope.  On top rope it was much easier it felt much more like a 5.  Lead climbing really messes with my head…

By this time the sun was nearly set so we walked around the the main face and tried Exfoliation 6a+.  The wall was now in the shade but bathed in light from the sunset.  I’ve never seen the rock in this light before and it was a different color.  Much more orange looking.  The rock was also very warm in places from the sun that had been shining on it for the previous 4 hours.  I got to the top quickly then Tamryn gave it a go.  She struggled a bit past the crux but made it to the top and did well on this tricky route.  By this time it was dark and time to go home.

 

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