Chong Phli – New Routes

I miss Tonsai.  For various reasons I haven’t been able to get to Tonsai.  But I have been climbing at Chong Phil the last couple weeks.  I just haven’t written about it.  After sending Grace I’ve actually been a little demotivated.  Climbing the easier routes and looking for the 5.fun.  Three new routes went in at Chong Phli.  A 5, 6a+, and 6a.  I helped Mike put some slings up on the new routes a few days ago.  Today I went back to Chong Phli and was planning to onsight / flash each route.  Well, I ended up projecting a 5 all day.  Funny how that happens.  I send a 7a then have to project a 5.  WTF!?

I read the route wrong and turned an easy 5 into a hard 6b.  Anong climbed it easily then I used the same beta she did and found it much easier.  One more lap on top rope and then I was able to redpoint it.  I suggested the name “Humble Pie” to Mike and I think it will stick so that’s kind of cool.

A couple days after that, I went back and intended to climb the other two routes.  I successfully flashed the middle route which  should go at about 6a+ and might end up getting named “Mr Machete” or something like that.  I tried the left on top rope and got stuck halfway up and it’s supposed to be easier! 😦  We moved some slings around and also watched Mike put up a new route with Neil to the left.  They’re thinking it will go at about 6c or 6c+.  Looks like a couple hard balancy moves then fun steep climbing up some tufas.

I’m in Bangkok now applying for a new passport but when I get back I want to figure out beta for the 6a and also try sending Hunting Shrooms 6c+.  I wonder how that will go after not climbing anything hard for a couple weeks and taking a few days off.

 

 

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