Climbing – Songkran

I haven’t written about the last several days of climbing I’ve done because I haven’t done anything interesting.  But I have been working on figuring out the crux of Hunting Shrooms 6c+ at Chong Phli.  I’ve been able to climb through it on top rope a couple times.  A new bolt also went in and protects the crux move much better than before.  So I should be able to lead it soon but I think it will still be very scary.

A few days later Anong and I went to Railay.  We were planning to climb at 123 Wall but the tide was extremely high and none of the climbs could be done there.  So instead we went to Muay Thai wall.  First we did Valentine 6a+.  I thought I had already redpointed it but turns out this was the first time for me.  Next, we did Alone 6b on top rope.  After this we ate lunch and headed over to Wee’s Present Wall to climb with Tamryn.  We climbed Way To The Top 5 then Roi-Et 6a.  I hadn’t climbed these routes in awhile so it was fun to try them again.  Next we moved over to a new climbing area.  Cave Wall was established in January 2014 and has two routes.  I looked at No Good Deed Goes Unpunished 6b+.  This is a long intimidating route with vertical to overhanging climbing.  I decided to give it a go and was able to onsight it!  Now I want to try the other route on the wall which I expect would be a similar climbing style but is a little harder.

A few days after that, I went to Tonsai to avoid Songkran in Ao Nang.  I stayed 4 nights / 5 days and climbed every day!  I climbed with a variety of people, got lots of massages, and drank lots of beer.  It was a fun week!  Here’s a list of climbs done:

Day 1:
Cobra Wall:

  1. Snake Skin 6a+, redpoint
  2. Cobra Head 6a, redpoint
  3. Snake Whiskey 6a+, redpoint
  4. Baby Snake 6c, toprope

Day 2:
Dum’s Kitchen:

  1. Schlingel Max 6b, redpoint (first time!)
  2. Don Quijote De La Mancha 7a, toprope

Monkey World:

  1. Chunky Monkey pitch 1 6b, onsight
  2. Curious George pitch1 6a, onsight
  3. Monkeying Around pitch 1 6a, onsight

Day 3:
Dum’s Kitchen:

  1. Schlingel Moritz 6a, redpoint
  2. Schlingel Max 6b, redpoint

Fire Wall:

  1. Groove Tube 6a, redpoint
  2. Boobtube 6b, onsight
  3. Up In Smoke 6a+, onsight

Day 4:
Wee’s Present Wall:

  1. Hello Christine 6a+, redpoint (first time!)
  2. Same Same But Different 6b+, top rope 2x
  3. Way To The Top 5, redpoint

123 Wall:

  1. We Sad 6a+, redpoint (finally!)

Muay Thai Wall:

  1. Alone 6b, redpoint (first time!)

Day 5:

Dum’s Kitchen:

  1. Schlingel Max 6b, redoint

Tyrolean Wall:

  1. Missing Snow 6b+, redpoint
  2. The Wrath Of Nantawan 7a, toprope
  3. Langes Feschtl 6b+

The Nest:

  1. Overstay 6b+, redpoint (first time!)

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