Chong Phli – Deflowered

Anong and I met Martin at Chong Phli for a bit of climbing.  First, we warmed up on Family Affair 6c.  Martin led most of it and used his fancy new clip stick for the cruxes.  I was lazy and climbed it on top rope.  I got through the first crux without too much trouble but had to rest at the top.  Maybe tired from yesterday’s climbing but I felt like the crimp at the top was slipperier than before.  Maybe it’s the heat / humidity.  Anong tried it but got stuck at the first crux.

Then Martin put up Deflowered 6b+.  I was lazy again and climbed it on top rope.  A section in the middle was a little tricky to figure out beta.  Then at the top it gets difficult.  I had to rest but once I found the holds hiding around the right side of the tufa it was much easier.  Then at the top is what makes this route cool.  You have to climb up behind a big stalactite and then climb through a hole.  I had trouble getting through the hole but once I found the right way to position my body it wasn’t too bad.  I’d like to climb this one again but and 80 meter rope is needed to lower the lead climber all the way to the ground.  With a 70 meter rope the leader will have to down climb a couple meters.  But a 70 meter rope will lower the second all the way to the ground if the rope is not clipped back into the quickdraws.  Fun 3D climbing at the top but the route is very dirty.  I think I would like to try this again.

So maybe next time I climb with Greg I will try this since he has an 80 meter rope.  But I think I can figure out how to do this with my 70 meter rope, an extra rope and another person to transfer the belay to.

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