Tonsai – Wake & Bake

Anong and I went to Tonsai with Greg.  We also met Mateusz and Holver there and climbed with them a bit.  We warmed up on the beach / Dum’s Kitchen area.  Greg put up Schlingel Moritz 6a, Anong top roped it and got to the top of it for the first time.  It’s cool to see her getting better.  Then I led it and cleaned.  I had a bit of a hard time with it.  The starting move is very powerful and I had to try a couple times.  Some of the longer reaches at the top also gave me a bit of trouble.  Last week I climbed the route easily.  I couldn’t figure out why it seemed so hard today.

Next, we did Schlingel Max 6b.  Greg was first to climb, he got one bolt past his previous high point but couldn’t get through the crux.  Then I climbed.  Again, it felt harder than I remember.  After getting to the top I realized it was the bottle of wine I drank the night before.  I didn’t really feel hungover but I didn’t have the power / endurance I normally have.  Note to self: Don’t drink a bottle of wine the day before climbing.  Next Anong climbed / cleaned on top rope.  She had not climbed this route before and did well.  She got up to the crux but could not get through.

Meanwhile, Mateusz and Holver were working on Wake & Bake 7a+.  We watched them put up the route.  First Mateusz tried  but couldn’t clip the second bolt.  Then Holver tried and made it up to the second but could not get to the third.  Then Mateusz tried again and fought / willed his way to the top.  It was cool watching these two try the route.  I think I am a little stronger than them but they are bolder / more confident than me and have better technique.  So with some more training, I know I can be much better than I am.  After Mateusz put up the route, they let me try on top rope.  I powered through the opening moves up to the crack then took a rest.  Then started up the crack.  Figuring out the sequences was tricky but I quickly learned if I stem off the left side of the wall things get much easier.  One more rest and I got to the top of the crack.  Then there is a good ledge to rest on.  From here the moves are not too difficult but are beta intensive.  So I got to the top of my first 7a+ on top rope.  It was very difficult but I feel like it’s something I will be able to do.  It will be my goal to redpoint this before I go home at the end of the year.

We ate lunch then headed over to Monkey Wall and climbed two of the routes I did last time.  We did the first pitch of Curious George 6a and the first pitch of Chunky Monkey 6b.  We finished up at about 4:30 and began making our way to Railay to catch a boat back to Ao Nang.  This time of the year it’s better to go to Railay because there aren’t usually people in Tonsai wanting to go to Ao Nang so you wait a very long time in Tonsai and/or pay extra for the boat.

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