Monthly Archives: May 2016

Chong Phli -Deflowered Part 2

On the 27th, Anong and I met Greg and his wife at Chong Phli.  We also saw Martin and Dorothea there.  Martin had his rope on Exfoliation 6a+ but wasn’t using it so we climbed that one first on top rope.  Martin was climbing Grace 7a so when he was done there I got to climb Grace two times on top rope.  I’m not ashamed to admit I like climbing on top rope 🙂  The sun was starting to come onto the wall so we went around the corner to climb in the cave.  We did Dude Abides 6a+ and taught Greg’s wife to belay.  Everything went well and nobody got dropped.  Then we did Shady 6b.  Anong wanted to climb it and I hadn’t done it in a while so I put it up.  The beginning is the hardest part.  Very steep and pumpy. The climbing eases off at the top but requires balance and confidence in your feet.

A couple days later on the 30th we went back to Chong Phli.  We got a late start so we just did Exfoliation 6a+.  I led it once then top roped it 5 more times.  For a long time I always felt intimidated by this route and didn’t really enjoy climbing it.  But now that I am much more familiar with it I see it really is a good route and is fun to climb.  Now if I can just get the 6c / 6c+ extension above it.

On the 1st Anong and I were climbing with Bruce and Erica.  I wanted to try Deflowered 6b+ on top rope again.  So we warmed up on EFZ 6a+ and Mad Skills 6b.  I was happy to redpoint Mad Skills.  It’s got a crux that is awkward for me with a small painful pocket.  Last time I tried I cheated through it by pulling on a sling.  But this time I relaxed a bit more and found a better body position to make the hold feel just a little better.  Next, Bruce put up Deflowered for us.  I climbed it on top rope and made it to the top cleanly.

I returned the next day to climb with Bruce and Erica again.  Anong had to go into town to see the doctor.  So we warmed up on Devil’s Backbone 6b.  Bruce led this and I climbed it on top rope.  Bruce climbed this differently than I did last time.  He stuck far to the left but that means skipping the last two clips.  Long runout but he made it to the anchor no problem.  After this, Bruce and Erica did a couple climbs.  I wanted to rest and collect my thoughts before trying to redpoint Deflowered 6b+.  This is a 36 meter long route that climbs up a dihedral and threads through a hole in the rock just before the anchor.  The rock is a little dirty but it’s got some good moves on it.  I wanted Bruce to climb first to hang the draws for me but he was having none of that.  So I loaded up on the quickdraws and headed up.  I was glad to have Bruce belaying.  He knows the route well and was able to give me some Beta when I needed it.  It took awhile with a little complaining but I got to the top and redpointed this impressive route!  I’m glad to have done it because the window for climbing this is quickly closing.  It’s been starting to rain and after a few days rain, this route stays wet for the rest of the year.  Bruce climbed it on top rope then my reward for leading was one more lap on top rope.  Tamryn showed up just as I was heading up.  So I put up EFZ 6a+ for her then we walked over to the new routes on the far right side of the crag and did Humble Pie 5.  Tamryn climbed that then with a little persuading she did the 6a chimney climb from the same anchor.

Yesterday Tamryn and I went for a run on the beach because I needed a rest day from climbing.  But we headed over to Chong Phli after and met Anong and everyone else there to watch them climb.  To my surprise, Anong was getting ready to lead Chutzpah 6a+.  And apparently she had also led Exfoliation 6a+ before that!  Anong was starting to lead the easier routes and doing well on them but she said she was afraid to try some of the harder ones.  Anyways, she led them with style and made it easily to the anchor.

And that brings us to today.  My legs are tired, my feet are sore, and I’m feeling low on energy from yesterday’s run.  The 5 beers I drank last night also might have had something to do with it.  But today Anong was my rope gun.  She did EFZ 6a+.  Then Mad Skills 6b.  She had to rest a bit at the crux but got through it without much trouble.  Then we did Exfoliation 6a+.  I also had her take a few practice falls.  I’m super impressed with her new found ability to lead more than just the easiest route at Chong Phli.