Author Archives: kph76

About kph76

I like to climb rocks and eat Thai food.

Public Service Announcement

Only in Thailand do people have to be told not to drive on the sidewalks.  I came across this video the other day and thought it was pretty funny.  First, the characters:

  • Douchebag – The guy driving on the sidewalk.  You know he’s a douche bag by the shirt he is wearing.
  • Grandma – Almost gets run over by Douchebag.  Lays down the law.
  • Pinkguy – Adds color.  Possibly diabetic and gay.
  • Pologuy – Calm and reasonable.

The translation:

เสียงแตร
Honking

Douchebag: โอ๊ย !! เร็วๆ ดิยาย – Ouch.  Quickly!  Quickly!  Grandma!
Douchebag: เก็บเร็วๆ ดิวะ ! – Hurry up! Pick up (your things) !
Douchebag: โถ่เว้ย ช้าเว้ย – Oh!  Slow!
Douchebag: หลบดิ๊ !! – Move!!

เสียงแตร – Honking

Pinkguy: จะบีบแตรทำไมคะ !? – Why are you honking !?
Douchebag: ก็หลบไปดิ !! – Step aside!!
Pologuy: นี้มันฟุตบาทนะครับคุณ – This is a sidewalk
Douchebag: แล้วไงอะ ? หรือจะให้กูชนไหม !?! – So what? Or you will crash into me!?!
Pinkguy: แล้วทำไมกูต้องหลบด้วย – So why do I need to get out of your way?
Douchebag: ก็กูรีบอะ – I’m in a hurry!
Pinkguy: ก็กูไม่รีบอะ – I’m not in a hurry!
Pinkguy: พี่รีบเหรอคะ You’re in a hurry?
Pologuy: ไม่เลย พี่ไม่รีบเลย – Not at all.  I’m not in a hurry at all

เสียงแตร – Honking

Douchebag: กูรีบ ! มึงเข้าใจไหมกูรีบ!? – I’m in a hurry! Do you understand I’m in a hurry!
Pinkguy: ไม่ !!! No!!!
Douchebag: แล้วมึงจะเอายังไงกับกู ห้ะ !?! อีเบาหวาน! – So what do you want with me !?!  You diabetic!
Pologuy: พวกผมไม่เอายังไงกับคุณหรอกครับ – We don’t want anything with you at all.
Douchebag: มึงก็หลบไปสิ ! มึงขวางทางรถกูอยู่ มึงเข้าใจหรือเปล่าวะ – Then step aside!  You are blocking my road. Do you understand or not?
Pinkguy: ไหนทางรถ !? ก็เห็นแต่ทางคนเดินเนี่ย – Where is the road !?  I see only the sidewalk.
Douchebag: หลบไป! หลบไป! – Step aside ! Step aside!
Pink guy: ไม่ !!! – No!!!
Douchebag: หลบไป !! Step aside!!
Douchebag: หลบไปดิ !! Step aside!!
Grandma: ใจเย็นๆ ลูก Calm down children.
Grandma: นะ ใจเย็นๆ ลูกอย่ามีเรื่องกันเลย – Calm down.  You don’t have any concern with each other.
Grandma: ใจเย็นๆ – Calm down
Pologuy: คุณยายเป็นอะไรไหมครับ – Grandma, are you ok?
Pologuy: ของในถุงไม่เป็นไรนะ? – Your things in the bag are ok?
Grandma: อ๋อไม่เป็นไร ยังอยู่ดีลูก – Oh, don’t worry child.  They are still good.
Grandma: เดินต่อกันเถอะ – Lets move along

เสียงแตร – Honking

Pinkguy: มึงจะบีบทำไมอีก !? – Why are you honking again?
Douchebag: มึงจะคุยกันอีกนานไหมเนี่ย !?! – Are you gonna talk a long time !?!
Douchebag: กูรีบ – I’m in a hurry.
Pinkguy: นานแค่ไหนก็เรื่องของกูไหม !?! – How long i talk is my concern !?!
Pinkguy: กูจะอาบน้ำ แต่งหน้า หล่อเทียนพรรษา มันก็เรื่องของกู – I will shower, put on makeup, making candles.  It is my concern.
Douchebag: มึงหลีกทางให้กูก่อนได้ไหมล่ะ ? – So can you move out of the way for me?
Douchebag: แล้วจะทำกับข้าว จะต้ังเตาบาร์บีคิว ทำอะไรก็เรื่องของมึงเลย! – Then i will cook food, setup the bbq.  Do whatever you need to do!
Pologuy: คุณขี่รถมอเดอร์ไซค์บนนี้ มันผิดกฎจราจร คุณไม่เหรอครับ ? – You are driving a motorcycle on this. It is against the traffic rules. Don’t you know this?
Douchebag: ก็ขี่แบบนี้มาเป็นปีแล้วอะ – I have driven like this for one year already.
Grandma: หนุ่มๆ – Boy.
Grandma: อย่ามีเรื่องกันเลยนะ – Don’t make an issue out of this.
Grandma: นะ อย่ามีเรื่องกันเลยนะ – Don’t make it an issue.
Douchebag: อะไรวะ ? ก็บ้านกูอยู่ทางนู้นอะ – What the fuck?  My house is that way over there.
Douchebag: แล้วกูจะไปทางนี้อะ – So i will go this way.
Douchebag: มึงจะให้กูวนรถอ้อมเสียเวลาเหรออะ !? – You will have me drive all around and waste time !?
Pinkguy: มึงก็ต้องทำไหม !? – You must do that !?
Pinkguy: หรือมึงจะตาย !? Or you will die!?
Pinkguy: กูอยากให้มึงตายตรงเนี้ย ! – I want to let you die right here!
Douchebag: รอมึงมีรถก่อนไง ค่อยทำแล้วกัน – Wait until you have a car.  Then you will do whatever you like.
Pologuy: นี่มันทางเท้าสำหรับคนเดินนะครับ – This is a sidewalk for people to walk on
Pologuy: แล้วถ้าวันนี้คุณไปชนคุณยายเขาเข้าเนี่ย – So if today you go crash into Grandma
Pologuy: คุณจะทำอย่างไง? – What are you going to do?
Douchebag: แล้ววันนี้ยายมึงเป็นอะไรไหม !? – So today is there anything wrong with your Grandma!?
Grandma: เออ..ยายไม่เป็นไรหรอก – No..Nothing wrong with me at all.
Grandma: แต่หนุ่มฟังยายนะ But you listen to me.
Grandma: ขี่รถบนทางเท้าเนี่ยมันผิด – Driving a vehicle on the sidewalk is wrong
Douchebag: อะไรเนี่ย !? นี่กูเสียเวลากับพวกมึงมากเลยนะเนี่ย – What!? This wastes my time so much.
Grandma: ฟังยายแป๊บนึง – Listen to me for a moment
Douchebag: อูยย เสียเวลาคุยเว้ย กูรีบ – Oh! Waste so much time chatting. I’m in a hurry!
Douchebag: มึงหลบทางไปเลย – You are blocking the path. Get out of the way
Pinkguy: ไม่หลบเว้ย! – I’m not moving!
Douchebag: มึงจะหลบไหม !? – Are you going to block the path!?
Douchebag: มึงหลบเลยนะ ทั้งอีตุ๊ด – You are blocking the path completely you faggot!
Douchebag: ทั้งไอ้หนวด! – Completely you fucking mustache guy!
Douchebag: ทั้งอีแก่เนี่ย !! – Completely you old hag!!

Douchebag: อุ๊ยๆ โอ๊ยๆๆๆ – ouch ouch ouch
Grandma: มึงเรียกกูอีแก่ได้ไง – How can you call me an old bag?
Grandma: กูนะรุ่นยายมึงแล้ว – I am of the older generation than you.
Grandma: กูใจเย็น นับ 1 เกือบถึง 1000 มึงยังไม่ยอมหยุด – I am calm.  Count 1 to almost 1000. You still do not accept to stop.
Douchebag: โอ๊ย!! – Ouch!!
Douchebag: ใครๆ เขาก็รีบ – Anybody, They also hurry.
Grandma: กูก็รีบ แต่กูเดินเร็วได้เท่านี้! – I am also in a hurry but i can only walk as fast as this.
Grandma: ถ้ามึงบีบแตรใส่กู – If you honk at me,
Grandma: แล้วกูหัวใจวาย ตายไป Then I will have a heart attack and die.
Grandma: มึงมีปัญญาพากูไปโรงพยาบาลไหม: – Will you take me to the hospital
Pinkguy: หูยย ตัวยายของจริง – Wow!  Grandma is a boss ass bitch!
Grandma: มึงรู้ว่าผิด มึงก็แค่ขอโทษ – You know it’s wrong you are just sorry you got caught.
Grandma: ไม่ใช่ เสือกอันธพาลมาเถียงกูกลับ – No?  You want to mess with being a gangster? Answer me.
Grandma: นะ..มึงจะขอโทษไหม!? – Are you going to be sorry?
Grandma: หรือจะให้กูพาไปส่งตำรวจ – Or are you going to let me take you to the police
Douchebag: ใจ…ใจเย็นยาย ขอโทษจ้ะยาย ขอโทษจ้า – Ca…calm down Grandma.  I’m sorry Grandma.  I’m sorry.
Grandma: ไม่ใช่ขอโทษกู ขอโทษสองคนนี่ – Don’t be sorry to me.  Say sorry to these two people.
Douchebag: อ๋อ.. ได้จ๊ะยาย – Oh.. I can Grandma.
Douchebag: ขอโทษครับ ขอโทษครับ – I’m sorry.  I’m sorry.
Pologuy: กฎจราจรอะ หัดทำตามบ้างนะครับ – The traffic regulations, practice to follow the example of other people.
Pologuy: มักง่ายกันอย่างนี้ แล้วจะอยู่กันอย่างไร!? If careless like this, Then how can we live with each other?
Douchebag: ขอโทษครับ ขอโทษครับ – I’m sorry.  I’m sorry.
Grandma: เรื่องง่ายๆ อย่างนี้ยังไม่ใส่ใจ – Easy issue.  Like this is still not mindful.
Grandma: ที่ลังมึงอย่าทำอีกนะ จำเอาไว้ – Don’t you do this again.  Remember it!
Douchebag: โอ๊ย ขอโทษครับ – Ouch.  I’m sorry!
Grandma: ไป! – Go!  Get out of here before I bust a cap in your ass!
Grandma: นู่น ถนน – There.  The street!
Douchebag: อ๋อ ทางนู้นเหรอยาย – Oh.  The way over there.

 

Laos

I am finishing up my 4th trip to Vientiane Laos.  Thailand is going to let me stay in the country 3 more months.  There’s not much to do in Vientiane.  I’ve seen everything already.  So I passed most of my time thinking about my life, walking along the Mekong River, and watching youtube videos 🙂  I did eat some good food.  I tried a new French restaurant near the hotel I stayed at and visited the Chok Dee Cafe again.

Yesterday was a Thai holiday which means the embassy was closed.  Which means I got my visa a day late.  There was a small chance I would make my flight home.  Right after I got my passport back I headed to the airport.  I got to the airport 20 minutes before my flight left.  But by then the check-in counters were closed already.  So I missed my flight but was able to book a new flight a few hours later.  So now I have some time to kill in the airport.

 

A taxi from the airport to any place in the city center costs 57,000 kip.  The hotel I stayed at books a taxi from the hotel to the airport for 60,000 kip.  I planned to take a tuk tuk from the embassy straight to the airport.  I asked the tuk tuk driver how much.  He said 100,000 kip!  I said why so much?  He said how much do you want to pay?  I said a taxi is 60,000.  He came down to 80,000 then I said 70,000 which the tuk tuk driver agreed to.  I thought I did pretty good.  Don’t let the tuk tuk drivers overcharge.

 

The President

So America has a new president.  It’s not the person most people were expecting to win.  I was expecting Clinton to win but was not very excited about it.  Both candidates in my mind were equally poor choices for different reasons.  Somehow both parties picked despicable candidates which could explain Trump’s upset victory.  Despite trumps sexist and racist rhetoric during the campaign, 42% of women voted for him and 21% of non whites voted for him according to exit polls.  Clearly there were larger issues at play here.

Well, there are so many things I could say here but it’s already been said elsewhere.  Hopefully the Democrats learned from this and will pick a candidate for 2020 that will unite people instead of divide them.

I do not think Trump will be the leader America needs.  But I’m hopeful things won’t be as bad as everyone makes him out to be.  Time will tell.  I’m willing to give him a chance.  I think everyone else should to.

 

 

The King

By now, the whole world should know, the king of Thailand Bhumibol Adulyadej (Thai:ภูมิพลอดุลยเดช) died on October 13, 2016.  He was the 9th king of Thailand beginning his reign on June 9, 1946.  At the time of his death, he was the longest serving head of state in the world and the longest reigning monarch in Thai history, serving for 70 years and 126 days.  For nearly every Thai person, he was the only king they knew.

The king of Thailand was highly revered.  People considered him a family member, and often he would be referred to as “father”.  He had reached a nearly divine status.  For the first week after his death the entire country was extremely somber.  A 1 year mourning period was declared and overnight wearing black became the new fashion trend.

Thailand has had a turbulent history.  Frequent military coups and 30 prime ministers since the king took the throne.  Like any leader some of the king’s decisions and actions were controversial.  But he did a lot of good for the country.  He helped a lot of people.  He was the one constant in Thailand over all the changes of leadership.  He held the country together and prevented the coups from developing into civil war.  He was an honorable person.  He was a humble person.  He loved Thailand and he loved all Thai people.  He understood his great responsibility and served with pride, dignity, and grace.  For these reasons, he was universally loved by all Thai people.

It is my hope that one day America can have a leader like this.

Hold Me Tight by Job 2 Do

The rain has been making me lazy. Here’s another translation of a Job 2 Do song.

กอดฉันไว้ โดย จ๊อบบรรจบ

Hold Me Tight by Job 2 Do

ลืมไปได้เลย It’s been forgotten
เรื่องที่เคยผ่านมาให้แล้วไป It’s in the past
รู้เธอไม่ตั้งใจ I know you did not intend
ให้มันพลั้งพลาดไปอย่างวันนั้น To make a mistake that day
ฉันไม่เคยแคร์ I never cared
และแม้ว่าใครจะคิดอะไรไม่สำคัญ Even if someone thinks it’s not important
ขอเพียงเธออย่าไหวหวั่น I just ask you to not worry
เรายังเริ่มกันได้ใหม่ We can still start over
สบตากับฉัน เชื่อในฉัน See me eye-to-eye Believe in me
เรื่องของวันวานไม่ต้องมาใส่ใจ We don’t have to worry about the past
ที่เคยเปียกฝนเดี๋ยวก็คงแห้งไป Whenever wet from the rain, should dry off soon
แค่กอดฉันไว้ Just hold me close
เขามองไม่เห็นค่า Unable to appreciate
อย่าไปสนปล่อยเขาช่างเขาไป Let him go
เสียแล้วก็เสียไป It’s already lost
ไม่ต้องคิดสิ่งใดให้หนักหนา Don’t have to give it serious thought
เพราะเรื่องวันวาน Because it’s in the past
จะทำอย่างไรก็ไม่มีทางเรียกคืนมา What would I do, there was no way to recall
คิดถึงวันพรุ่งนี้ดีกว่า I would rather look to the future
วันเวลาที่โลกเป็นของเรา Someday the world will be ours
สบตากับฉัน เชื่อในฉัน See me eye-to-eye Believe in me
เรื่องของวันวานไม่ต้องมาใส่ใจ We don’t have to worry about the past
ที่เคยเปียกฝนเดี๋ยวก็คงแห้งไป Whenever wet from the rain, should dry off soon
แค่กอดฉันไว้ Just hold me close
วันนี้ฉันรักเธอ Today I love you
สบตากับฉัน เชื่อในฉัน See me eye-to-eye Believe in me
เรื่องของวันวานไม่ต้องมาใส่ใจ We don’t have to worry about the past
ที่เคยเปียกฝนเดี๋ยวก็คงแห้งไป Whenever wet from the rain, should dry off soon
แค่กอดฉันไว้ Just hold me close
วันนี้ฉันรักเธอ Today I love you

Hug Me by Job 2 Do

I looked everywhere for the lyrics to this song and could not find them.  So with the help from a couple Thai friends I wrote them down myself.  The translation is all me so I’m sure there are some mistakes but I think it is close.

กอดฉัน โดย จ๊อบบรรจบ

Hug Me by Job 2 Do

อยากให้เธอจงจำไว้ I’d like her to remember
วันที่เธอไม่มีใคร เข้าใจ The days when she did not have anybody to understand
คืนและจันมันเงียบเหงา Night and day it is quiet and lonely
มีแต่เรากับความฝันเรื่อยไป There is only us and continuous dreams
เท่าชีวิตมีพลาดพลั้ง As in life, mistakes are made
เก็บพลังไว้ต่อสู้ฟันฝ่า Save strength and overcome struggles
จะมีใครอีกเล่าหนา Will there ever be anybody again?
เข้าใจเราเท่าตัวเราเอง Understand us, even ourselves
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ยามที่เธอ ไม่เหลือใคร When she did not have anybody remaining
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ลืมมันไปเรื่องเลวร้ายที่ผ่านมา Forget the evils from the past
มองเมฆฝนอยู่บนฟ้า See the rain clouds in the sky
อีกไม่นานฟ้าคงสุดใส Soon the sky will clear
อยากให้เธอจงจำไว้ I’d like her to remember
ว่ายังมีฉันอยู่ ก้บเธอตลอดไป That I am still with her for all time
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ยามที่เธอ ไม่เหลือใคร When she did not have anybody remaining
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ลืมมันไปเรื่องเลวร้ายที่ผ่านมา Forget the evils from the past
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ยามที่เธอ ไม่เหลือใคร When she did not have anybody remaining
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ลืมมันไปเรื่องเลวร้ายที่ผ่านมา Forget the evils from the past
มองเมฆฝนอยู่บนฟ้า See the rain clouds in the sky
อีกไม่นานฟ้าคงสุดใส Soon the sky will clear
อยากให้เธอจงจำไว้ I’d like her to remember
ว่ายังมีฉันอยู่ ก้บเธอตลอดไป That I am still with her for all time
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ยามที่เธอ ไม่เหลือใคร When she did not have anybody remaining
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ลืมมันไปเรื่องเลวร้ายที่ผ่านมา Forget the evils from the past
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ยามที่เธอ ไม่เหลือใคร When she did not have anybody remaining
จงโอบกอดฉันไว้ Please hug me tight
ลืมมันไปเรื่องเลวร้ายที่ผ่านมา Forget the evils from the past

Thai Tone Rules

Learning the tone rules for the Thai language can seem overwhelming at first.  The tone of a syllable depends on the initial consonant class (3 choices), whether or not a tone mark is present (2 choices), vowel length (2 choices), and the syllable ending (2 choices) which would result in 24 individual rules to memorize.  Luckily this can be simplified much further.

The rules for when a tone mark is present are the simplest and were the easiest for me to remember so I’ll present those first.

  1. If the initial consonant class is high or middle, then the tone matches the tone mark.
  2. If the initial consonant class is low with tone mark อ่ – ไม้เอก, then the tone produced is เสียงโท or falling tone.
  3. If the initial consonant class is low with tone mark อ้ – ไม้โท, then the tone produced is เสียงตรี or high tone.  

Note that the other two tone marks will never appear over a low class consonant.

The rules for when no tone mark is present are a little more complicated but are not too difficult to learn.

  1. If the initial consonant class is low or middle and the syllable has a live ending then the syllable is pronounced with a middle tone.
  2. If the initial consonant class is high and the syllable has a live ending then the syllable is pronounced with a rising tone.
  3. If the initial consonant class is middle or  high and the syllable has a dead ending then the syllable is pronounced with a low tone.
  4. If the initial consonant class is low and the syllable has a dead ending with long vowel then the syllable is pronounced with a falling tone.
  5. If the initial consonant class is low and the syllable has a dead ending with short vowel then the syllable is pronounced with a high tone.

That’s it!  Only 8 rules(3 with a tone mark, 5 without a tone mark) to remember in order to read the tone of a Thai syllable correctly.  I created this simple mnemonic to help remember the rules when no tone mark is present:

Thai: ผม ชอบ รับ ประ ทาน ปู ผัด
R/Tone: r2/rising r4/falling r5/high r3/low r1/mid r1/mid r3/low
English: I like to eat crab fried

Note that in Thai the adjective comes after the noun so the above would be correctly translated as “I like to eat fried crab”.  Here’s a spreadsheet I made with the Thai alphabet and the tone rules.  Check the “Tone Rules” tab.

Koh Phi Phi

On the 11th Anong and I travelled to Koh Phi Phi to visit a friend of mine and her husband who were visiting from America.  We woke up early and by 12:00 we were on the island checking into our hotel.

Koh Phi Phi is very beautiful.  It has recovered from the 2004 tsunami and is back bigger and “better” than before.  I say “better” because Phi Phi now suffers from mass tourism.  I didn’t really see any Thai culture here.  Just lots of tourists.  It could have been a tropical island anywhere.  If one wants to relax on the beach and party at night, Phi Phi would be a good place to go.  Phi Phi is also the most expensive place I’ve stayed at and I didn’t think it offered good value for money.  Even though this is kind of critical of Koh Phi Phi I did enjoy my time there because I got to see some friends and the climbing is also good.  Oh, one good thing about Koh Phi Phi.  There are no cars on the island!  So at least I didn’t have to worry about getting hit by a car like I constantly do in Krabi / Ao Nang.

So back to the first day.  Anong and I met my friends for lunch then we headed off to Tonsai Tower for some climbing.  I had heard the grades here were soft so I was curious to see what the style of climbing was like and what I could do.

First Day

  1. Trong Pai (Straight Ahead) 6a+, Relatively straightforward climbing with a cruxy move near the anchor.  Onsight.
  2. Seven Samurais 6b+, Did this one on top rope but I should had led it.  Easy climbing up to a roof which then has huge jugs to pull on to get over the roof then moderate climbing to the anchor.
  3. Scenic Bulimic 6a, Huge blocky holds up a slight overhang.  A little pumpy but easy.  Onsight.
  4. Gladiator 6c, A steep jug haul.  Big fun moves.  Just when I thought I couldn’t hang on anymore it eases up near the anchor.  Onsight.
  5. Sol y Sombra 6b+,  By now I was feeling tired and thought I’d lead a nice relaxing 6a+ by heading up Sud Jawt.  Well, 3/4 of the way up my friends informed me I was on a 6b+.  Oops.  But it was going well so far so I continued up and was going well until I got to the crux.  WTF.  Had to rest to figure it out then pulled on the sling to get past.  Oh well.
  6. Crisis?  What Crisis? 6b, By now very tired but climbed cleanly on top rope.  Fun climb up some tufas.

So, yeah.  The grades seem soft.  Or maybe I’m that good?  No, they’re soft.  But it feels good to lead 6b+ without too much trouble and even onsight a 6c for the first time!

Day 2

Warm up on Scenic Bulimic 6a again.  Still feels pumpy.  Then we get started on today’s objective.  Going Dutch 6c+, a 4 pitch climb.  The first pitch was great.  More steep climbing with lots of jugs and pockets.  I was following but climbed it clean.  The next two pitches had some awkward sections on them.  Beta was difficult to figure out though graded easier than the first pitch I thought they were actually harder.  The final pitch was easier but the rock quality not as nice.  But overall it was a really good climb.  I was an idiot and dropped my ATC from the top of the third pitch which meant some time wasted on the rappel.  Amazingly enough I was able to find it in some bushes when we got down.  The sun was going down by the time we made it back to the ground and beers on the beach after tasted really good.

Day 3

  1. Golden Copulation 6b, I had to climb it for the name but it also looked fun.  A two pitch climb that I climbed as a single pitch.  Easy down low and very fun climbing up higher.  50+ meters of rope is really heavy.  Onsight.
  2. Mr Viper, Mr. Pit Viper 6a,  Slightly overhanging climbing up huge blocky holds.  Onsight.
  3. Pirates of the Andaman 6c, Bouldery start then easier climbing to the first anchor.  Onsight.  Follow second pitch.  Starts off easy then some tough moves on pockets.  Onsight.
  4. Sud Jawt 6a+,  Decided I should actually climb this climb that I intended to a couple days ago.  Not a bad climb.  Onsight.

The climbing in Koh Phi Phi is pretty good, even with the aggressive monkeys.  I’ll post some pictures later.  The grades on a lot of the climbs are on the soft side. Onsighting two 6c’s as well as a 6b and top roping 6c+ cleanly has me feeling good about myself.  But some of the climbs are very weird and maybe it’s just figuring out the beta but I thought were full value.  I’m thinking of the 6b+ pitches of “Going Dutch” and the 6b+ Sol Y Sombra.  Overall a good trip that was lots of fun.

 

Chiang Mai – Part 2

One night we decided to have a traditional northern cuisine dinner along with a show of traditional Thai dances.

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The food.

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There were many different dances and lots of good costumes.

The next day was Loy Krathong.  We visited a few more temples.  I’ll spare the pictures since they start to look all the same.  In the evening we walked around the city and participated in the festivities.

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A couple weeks ago we met Christine when climbing at Tonsai.  Turns out she was going to be in Chiang Mai around the same time as us.  She was with a bunch of other friends and invited us to Thanksgiving dinner.  There was no turkey (we had some chicken) but we got to have some other traditional thanksgiving dishes.  We also made plans to go climbing a day or two later.

Anong wasn’t feeling too well so she stayed in the city but I met Christine and Kat at CMRCA in the morning for a day of climbing.  We decided to climb at Reunion Buttress.  It has a few fun moderate climbs and a really good three pitch climb that we were able to do as 2 pitches thanks to my 70m rope.  First we warmed up on Teamwork 5c which was relatively straightforward.  Then we climbed Smells Like Team Spirit 6a which had a cruxy middle section and a really good finish.  Then we did did the Reunion 6a, 5a, 6a+ which was fun, a little scary on the last pitch, and had some really good views.  By this time, Kat had to catch her ride back to town but Christine was riding with me so we had time for one more.  We finished up with Reminisce 6a.  By now it was starting to get dark  so it was time to head back.  Pro tip, best to leave the crag around 4:30 or 5:00 even though it stays light till 6:00 or 6:30.  Once the sun starts to go down all the bugs come out.  My helmet didn’t have a face shield so dealing with all the bugs was annoying.  Other than that, it was a great day climbing!

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Kat going up Teamwork.

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Me getting started on Smells Like Team Spirit.

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Christine on Smells Like Team Spirit.

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Kat on Smells Like Team Spirit.

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View from the top of Reunion.

The next day we went back with plans to meet some friends of a friend who were also in Chiang Mai the same time as Anong and I.  We climbed at The Rooftop which doesn’t actually have any roofs but gets up up really high at Crazy Horse and the views are really good.  Warmed up on A Route With a View 5c+, then did Heun Fah 5b, and finally the best route at the crag, Skyscraper 6a.  It’s a rather long route at 29 meters with lots of fun moves.  We ate lunch then headed over to Tamarind Village and climbed The Chimney Sweep 6a which took me a couple of tries to get.  I guess I need to work on my chimney climbing technique.  Then The Queen Bee 5c, 4500 5a, and finally finished up the day on Happy Birthday 6b which I climbed clean first go but on top rope and was a good finish to the day / climbing at Crazy Horse.

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Anong belaying me as I head up Skyscraper.

Back in the city we had Khao Ka Moo from the cowboy hat lady.  It was really good.

Dinner.

Dinner.

Laos Visa Run

Well, it’s been a year already.  But I don’t feel ready to come home.  So I decided to enroll for one more year of Thai language lessons which means a visa run to Laos.  I guess I need to rename this blog.  Sorry to family and friends that miss me.  I’m going to be gone one more year and will definitely be coming home after the year is up.

On December 10th, we woke up early to catch a flight to Udon Thani.  Then from there needed to figure out how to get to Nong Bua Lamphu.  We decided to stay a few days in Nong Bua Lamphu to visit Anong’s family.  We figure out we need to go to “Udon Thani Bus Station #2” which is 4km away.  The taxi station at the airport says it will be 200 Baht.  This seemed very expensive and they were not willing to negotiate so I told them for that price I’d rather walk.  I didn’t really want to walk but I’m also not willing to be overcharged just because I’m an obvious foreigner.  Luckily we find a tuk tuk driver who said he would take us for 100 Baht.  Deal!  5 minutes later we were at the bus station and as luck would have it the bus we needed was leaving in just a few minutes.  So we are on our way to Nong Bua Lamphu!  Later on I’m comparing prices of the Udon Thani airport taxi to other places.  Most taxi’s are charging 20 to 25 Baht per km.  This taxi wanted 50 Baht per km.  No thanks!

In Nong Bua Lamphu we didn’t do much.  Just relaxed a couple days then got on another bus back to Udon Thani then a mini bus to Nongkai / Thai / Laos Friendship Bridge.

Going through the border was pretty much as I remember it. First go through Thai immigration and use your departure card to exit Thailand. Then take a bus across the bridge (20 Baht) to enter Laos and go through Laos immigration. The Laos immigration border is very confusing to me but after going through it 2 times now I think I have it figured out. There is one line that Thai (maybe other) citizens go through. They pay 100 Baht to get an entry/exit card then go through immigration and get their passport stamped. American (and most likely other) citizens go through a different process. Go to window #2 and get the visa on arrival form. Then go to window #1 and give them your form, passport and pay $36 dollars. Then go to window #3 to collect your passport with new visa and any change. Sometimes I do really stupid things. I have no idea why but I skipped window #2 and gave window #1 my Thai education visa application form the school prepared for me for the Thai embassy consular office. Nobody said hey moron you gave us the wrong form, go to window #2 and get the right form. They just accepted it and gave me my visa so I had no idea at the time I gave them the wrong form. Anyways, now that I have my visa, I get to skip the other immigration lines and also don’t need to buy the exit card. Just show whichever “official” looking person your visa with stamp and they will let you through.

Now into Laos we need to figure out how to get to the hotel. It’s about 20km to the hotel we’re staying at so walking isn’t really an option. I’m always skeptical of people coming up to me offering rides. First they said 60 kip to the hotel we were staying at. I was very confused because 60 kip is basically free. Less than 1 cent. After clarifying they meant 60,000 kip which is about 250 Baht. Seemed reasonable so I went with it. After 30 or 40 minutes we arrived at the hotel. Something slightly humorous on the ride to the hotel happened. Turns our our taxi was actually a song thao so we picked up another person who happened to be a kind of cute Lao girl, probably in her 20’s. Halfway through the trip she spoke something in Lao. I just ignored it because I thought she was talking to Anong sitting across from me. Lao and Isaan languages are very similar so Anong can easily and often does talk with Lao people.  Lao people also understand a lot of Thai.  The grammar is pretty much the same but vocabulary is often different.  There is some common vocabulary and Laos people are exposed to a lot of Thai media which is one reason they understand Thai.  But Thai people understand little to none of the Lao language.  So this girl says “อ้ายอ้ายไปไส” which sounded like gibberish to me since I wasn’t expecting anyone to speak to me let alone in the Laos language.  I ignored her because I didn’t understand what she said and didn’t think she was talking to me.  Anong ignored her because it was obvious to Anong that she was talking to me.  I later learned a rough translation of what she said was “Hey dude, where are you going?”  I guess she thought I was cute too.

 

I wasn’t too impressed with Vientiane the first time I came here, partly because the first time I came here I choose a hotel close to the embassy (about a 5 minute walk). There really isn’t anything to do in that area. This time I chose a much nicer hotel which is closer to lots of restaurants, cafe’s, shops, temples, etc… But it’s about a 45 minute walk. Vientiane is slowly growing on me. The place is an interesting juxtaposition of Lao, Buddhist, Communist, and French influence. International cuisine is pretty good here and of course there is a lot of Lao / Thai food to be found.

The embassy / consular office was closed all last week due to a holiday or something. So Monday morning was a complete shit show. Anong and I got there just after 8:30am when they open and there were already hundreds of people there. I’m guessing 333 people to be exact since the number given to me for next day pickup was 334. It wasn’t like last time where you stand in line to get a number then can sit down, relax, wander around while waiting for your group of numbers to be called up with window 1 or 2 to submit your application. It was just one giant line that snaked around the chairs in the waiting area, back to the entrance, around the yard, and out the entrance. At one point one of the guards decided the gate needed to be opened, I think for a car or motorbike coming in or out. I forget. Anyways, he just opened the gate and rolled it right into some people around me waiting next to it without any warning at all. Luckily I avoided it but a couple people got their shins / feet bashed. WTF? Seems at least once a week I see something new that makes me shake my head and leaves me dumbfounded about the behavior of Thai people. Not even any warning this guy just decides to roll the gate right into people waiting in line. How is that acceptable behavior in any culture?

Except for that it was pretty boring. Was next to a guy from Australia who spoke pretty good Thai. He was teaching me some Thai slang / vocabulary. Most of which I’ve already forgotten but did write down a couple things. Shortly after the gate incident and chatting with the Australian guy, I realized my mistake at the Lao border and that I did not have the visa application form. After a short panic Anong got a new form for me. Luckily I had one extra passport / visa photo. But the form requires two pictures. So I found a picture on another document I didn’t need to submit and cannibalized that. It was a little smaller than the first picture so I spent the next two hours standing in line wondering if my pictures would be accepted. There was a place photos can be made but I didn’t want to take new pictures and lose my place in line. By the time I finally got to the application window I submitted my application and forms. The guy behind the counter didn’t say anything and said ok, come back tomorrow so I guess they’re good. I’ll find out soon since I’m on my way to pick up my passport that hopefully has a new visa in it. Total time in line, nearly 4 hours!

Advice for visa application. Don’t go on a Monday after long holiday or you will spend a lot of time waiting in line. Even after I was done the line still went all the way back to the gate.

The next day I go back to pick up my visa.  Another long confusing line.  But after awhile I figure out we don’t need to stand in line and they’re calling numbers up.  So I sit down on the grass and wait.  About 3 hours later I have a shiny new visa.  Later on I learned over 1000 people applied for visas that day.  Definitely do not go on a Monday after long holiday.

The next day we’re off to Bangkok for a week.  Saw some friends, climbed on fake rocks, and ate some good food.